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Chula Vista could well be considered the new capital of Sinaloa-style seafood in San Diego County. In recent years, some 20 restaurants have opened that offer the same quality and flavor as their Tijuana counterparts, and some even belong to chains founded decades ago in the state of Sinaloa. And the busy season for these restaurants kicked off this week with Ash Wednesday, the beginning of Lent, a time when Mexican Catholics really go for fish and seafood. In the past, San Diegans had to cross the border to Tijuana to enjoy typical dishes from the Sinaloa coast – characterized by generous use of hot spices and by the freshness of the seafood, especially the shellfish – but a strong demand for this type of restaurants has grown here.
“It was a really good business opportunity,” says Eduardo Angulo, manager of Los Arcos, which opened its doors in Chula Vista in June. Its Tijuana location opened some 20 years ago. “The same clientele who used to go to the restaurant in Tijuana asked us to open one in San Diego.” Besides the inconvenience of the long border waits, the violence that has plagued Tijuana in recent months has resulted in fewer people crossing the border to get their ceviche and aguachile fixes. There's also the stereotype that seafood restaurants in Tijuana are frequented by drug dealers. Some violent incidents last year have further affected the business of these restaurants in Baja California. In Chula Vista, “almost all the restaurants offer a 100 percent family atmosphere, with a very nice ambience, very calm,” says David Curiel, one of the owners of Karina's, a seafood chain with five locations in the county, including two in Chula Vista. Practically all the restaurants seek out purveyors who offer the freshest products, and some, like Los Arcos, ship their shrimp directly from the Sinaloa coast. Here is a brief guide to some outstanding Sinaloa-style seafood restaurants in Chula Vista. In all of them, the price ranges are similar to those found in Tijuana. To start things off, a shrimp ceviche tostada runs around $3, an entree like breaded fish costs about $9, and fresh seafood can run from about $11 for a shrimp and octopus cocktail to $21 for an order of oysters. With almost 30 years in business, Karina's is a San Diego original with roots in Sinaloa. Try the Ceviche Karina's, with a serrano chile sauce. They have live mariachi music Wednesdays through Sundays. 986 Broadway, Chila Vista, (619) 476-8648, and four other county locations; karinasseafood.com. This chain has always distinguished itself by offering a more low-key atmosphere than other seafood chains in Mexico. Try the Los Arcos Octopus, which includes tuna and smoked shrimp. There is live music on weekends featuring Factor 7, making for a lively ambience. 89 Bonita Road, Chula Vista; (619) 934-3517 or restaurantlosarcos.com.mx. Sometimes called the Cathedral of Seafood, Mariscos Negro Durazo is one of Tijuana's most popular chains. Try the Maleficio, with scallops and shrimp aguachile. They have a Norteño or Sierreño band Friday through Sunday. 415 Broadway, Chula Vista, (619) 240-7148. With two locations, the newest one in Eastlake, Hector's offers a more American flavor without losing its Sinaloa essence. Try the grilled Special No. 5, which includes a variety of specialties, including Shrimp Costa Azul (cheese-stuffed shrimp wrapped in bacon), seafood broth and prawns. 1177 Broadway, Suite 14, Chula Vista, (619) 585-0773, 2305 Otay Lakes Road, Chula Vista; (619) 421-1300; pescadosymariscoshectors.com.
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